The waters around Cape Cod in Massachusetts are a graveyard for ships and many lighthouses were built in the nineteenth century to stem the loss of life. Today there are about 13 lighthouses that can be viewed from a distance or visited. Cape Cod lighthouses hold a fascination for visitors to the region and many, though long ago decommissioned, have survived as private homes, Inns, or museums. To understand why lighthouses are so important and prevalent to the area we need to go back to the last glacier era. Cape Cod is the most easterly peninsular in the U.S. and was formed during the last great glacier age over 20,000 years ago. Cape Cod and the Islands were at the southernmost extreme of the glaciers and were formed from the debris and silt left behind when the last of the glaciers retreated. In addition to laying down the foundation for the peninsular, this period also saw Georges Bank and Stellwagen Bank form. At one time these were both above sea level but with the glaciers receding, and the water level rising, these became submerged and are now some of the most productive fishing grounds in the world. A fact not lost on the whales who return to these feeding grounds each spring.
As New England was settled by Europeans they learnt about the great fishing grounds and the whales in the area and ports such as New Bedford, Salem, Portsmouth, and of Course, Boston, grew in importance. Shipping, and their safe passage through the treacherous waters, was key to the prosperity of the region.The geology around Cape Cod is volatile. Great storms sweep in and erode the fragile cliffs and create sand bars a few hundred yards off shore where yesterday there was a navigable channel. There are also many ledges and shoals close to shore. For the captain of a ship in the nineteenth century they were nightmare waters to navigate. Many people living on the Cape during this period made a living out of the debris that washed ashore from shipwrecks. Most of the lighthouses were built during this period in an attempt to stem the loss of precious life and cargo. For those wanting to romanticize about being a lighthouse keeper during the last century along the Cape Cod coast, read Henry Beston’s classic “Outermost House” and you’ll understand the constant peril and hardship these people lived under. Many lost their lives helping strangers keep theirs. Enough of the history let’s talk about these beautiful monuments and what you can expect.
Wings Neck Lighthouse at Pocasset in Buzzards Bay and Sandy Neck Light in Barnstable are both now privately owned and can only be viewed from a distance.
On the tip of Cape Cod is Provincetown and here you’ll find three lighthouse specimens you can view close up providing you’re ready for some hiking along sandy trails. Long Point Light guards the entrance to the harbor and along with Wood End Light, just a few miles around the tip, are unmanned and built in the 1870’s. Race Point Light can be reached from a trail on the Cape Cod National Seashore Province Lands Park. It’s solar powered and you can overnight in the Keeper’s House.
Highland Light, located in Truro and also known as Cape Cod Light, was relocated in 1996 to save it from crumbling into the sea. The lighthouses along the ocean coastline are forever prone to their foundations being eroded by the winter storms of the Cape. Tours are operated during the summer months and this is a picture perfect Cape Cod lighthouse.
Nauset Light in Eastham is about equal distance between Highland and Chatham Light. It has a distinct red and white color and is perhaps the most recognizable and photographed lighthouse on the Cape. In its location was once three lighthouses known as the Three Sisters. The three beacons were deliberate so ships could identify where they were along the Cape. Highland Light emitted one beacon and Chatham had twin lights. The Three Sisters eventually were decommissioned after succumbing to a long battle with the weather and erosion, and sold off at auction. Eventually the Three Sisters were purchased by the National Park service and can be seen in their original configuration in an area close to the current Nauset Light on Cable Road. Only one has been fully restored.
Chatham Light was once two lights and one of the towers was moved to Nauset in 1923. The current Nauset Light was also relocated back from the cliffs in 1996 to protect it from disappearing into the ocean. As previously mentioned Chatham once had two towers but eventually this was considered an unnecessary expense and one was move to Nauset to replace the last of the crumbling Three Sisters. Chatham Light today is still operational and the keeper’s dwelling is used by the Coast Guard. Unfortunately, erosion by two major recent storms will eventually force the difficult decision to relocate this historic building.
Monomoy Light was built in 1849 and is located in the wildlife refuge of the same name. It can be reached by ferry. It was once located on a peninsular linked to Chatham but the massive winter storm of 1978 split the peninsular into two islands isolating the lighthouse. Be prepared for a long hike to reach the lighthouse once you leave the ferry.
Stage Harbor Lighthouse on Nantucket Sound near Chatham was built in 1880 and passed into private property after it was decommissioned in 1933. The lighthouse can be viewed from Harding’s Beach. If you’d like to eat in a lighthouse then you’ll get your chance at the old Bass River Light. Built in 1855 this has now become the Lighthouse Inn in West Dennis, and thanks to the efforts of the owners is registered as a seasonal lighthouse officially operating as the West Dennis Light during the summer months.
Our final beacon from Cape Cod is Nobska Point Lighthouse in Woods Hole and built in 1876. This is a beautiful lighthouse and one you can tour on specific dates during May thru December. Its home to the commander of the Coast Guard of this New England region. I encourage you the next time you visit Cape Cod to take in some of these historic treasures and if you’d like to discover more about any of these lighthouse along with directions and tour information there are two excellent resources to check out:
Written By Cliff Calderwood. Cliff specializes in writing about New England and especially on Cape Cod Vacations and you can download his New England Trip Planner for free at his web site here: http://www.new-england-vacations-guide.com/
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